china

Democracy: A Tale of Two Cities pt. 3: Hong Kong, Boots (flipflops) on the Ground

What is home?  Home is where the heart is.  Some people say home is where your family is. Some people say home is where you are born. Some people say home is wherever you currently are.  I agree with all of these, and to paraphrase a friend, you do not get to choose where you are born, but you do get to choose where you live. Eight and a half years ago, I chose Hong Kong. Or rather, Hong Kong chose me. I do still believe that all my paths have been leading me to Kabul, my great big pie in the sky dream; however, Hong Kong is the place where I became who I am today. Hong Kong is forever in my heart- my greatest love, my longest and most stable relationship. I think there will never be a place like Hong Kong for me- my #1.

Four days ago I hopped onto a plane from Kabul to Hong Kong, so that I could participate in the historic demonstrations that are ongoing in my adopted city. Anxious to join the protestors in the struggle towards democracy, my heart was full of anticipation and a bit of trepidation- would there be repeats of the tear gassing and pepper spray? What of the rumors of guns full of rubber bullets? Would the PLA show up, as people all secretly feared? What I actually encountered when I arrived in Hong Kong on Wednesday, 1st October (China National Day), was far more shocking, far more moving.

The main thoroughfare from Sheung Wan-Central-Admiralty-Wanchai-Causway Bay has been transformed. Instead of a busy highway full of taxis, buses, cars, and trucks, it has become a pedestrian zone full of black and yellow clad protestors of all ages. Contrary to what you might be fearing, after that tense Sunday night of tear gas and pepper spray, there has been absolutely no further violence or altercation. In fact, this is, by all intents and purposes, the best of anything I have ever seen in my 8.5 years of living in Hong Kong. This is the best of our courtesy, politeness, respect, compassion, and caring for one another as fellow humans, as fellow Hong Kongers. Here is what I have witnessed over the last few days of the protests:

  • Tens of thousands of people on Connaught Road. Walking around, standing around, sitting around…. You would never know that this is our main highway, that it is a road at all. It looks like a wonderful park.
  • Tens of thousands of people waving their phones and flashlights, and singing together. It’s no wonder the Taliban banned music in Afghanistan before…. The power of collective singing and music is far too powerful to ignore. Every time spontaneous song erupts I have to fight back my tears, as the camaraderie is so emotional
  • Students doing their homework on the street
  • People walking around collecting garbage
  • Garbage and recycling sorting stations
  • Kids handing out free water, food, fans, cool packs, stickers, democracy information, yellow ribbons, etc
  • People holding signs offering translation services for those of us who mm sic gong guangdonghua
  • People climbing ladders set up over the road dividers
  • Banner march by ethnic minorities
  • People walking through the crowd spraying cold water on overheated protestors
  • First aid stations manned by volunteers
  • Supply stations full of free water, food, umbrellas, raincoats, goggles and cling film to protect from tear gas
  • Signs advertising free legal services in case you get arrested
  • Signs advertising free showers and phone charges
  • Messages of international solidarity projected onto the walls of the government building
  • Protest art, everywhere
  • Signs of apologies for blocking roads, rogue graffiti, anything offensive
  • Yellow ribbons everywhere
  • People cooking and distributing food right on the street

People have accused Hong Kongers of being self-absorbed, apathetic, and driven only by money. What I have witnessed these last few days assures me of exactly the opposite- what I have seen is people caring for each other and for the city, offering help, assistance, advice, and being driven by a spirit of community and humanity that I always knew was here, but never got to see before.

Hong Kong truly is a SPECIAL Administrative Region…. The most special. Pray for peace, pray for progress, pray for Hong Kong!!

Phone charging station

Phone charging station

Crowds

Crowds

Lending a helping hand

Lending a helping hand

Barricades

Barricades

Recycling station

Recycling station

Messages of encouragement

Messages of encouragement

Free umbrellas

Free umbrellas

Ethnic Minorities joining the cause

Ethnic Minorities joining the cause

Kids joining the cause

Kids joining the cause

Wise words

Wise words

Collecting garbage

Collecting garbage

Solidarity

Solidarity

Dreamers

Dreamers

Crowds

Crowds

Help yourself!

Help yourself!

Homework time

Homework time

Ga Yau!

Ga Yau!

Democracy: A Tale of Two Cities pt. 1: Hong Kong

photo credit: Joshua Wong

Police standoff.

The front pages of SCMP, New York Times, CNN, BBC, Time, Al-Jazeera, Huffington Post, Wall Street Journal are all the same:

Tear gas fired at protestors as streets become a battleground/ Police unleash tear gas/ Clashes at protest frontline/ Tear gas and clashes/ Tear gas used against protestors/ Bedlam/ Chaos

photo credit SCMP

Cops tear gassing HK crowds around 1am

These are the kind of headlines I would except from Kabul, the city where I currently enjoy political instability, city-wide lockdowns, vehicle born improvised devices and the likes.  These are not the kind of headlines I would expect from my beloved home, HONG KONG, safest and most stable city in the world!!

Why is this happening?  Recently, Beijing issued a statement saying that THEY will choose the candidates to go on future ballots, that they will have veto rights over who gets “elected.”  Essentially, Mainland China is ruling out our democracy.  We already have extremely limited suffrage, and this further diminishes our rights, and swallows us more and more into the gaping maw that is the PRC.    Hong Kongers are peaceful people, and we love our city.  For us, protesting is a way of life.  It is one of the things that makes Hong Kong so great- we are able to voice our opinions without fear of oppression from the government.  But tonight, protests have turned ugly, with police firing tear gas and pepper spray into the crowds of thousands, with a constant rumour of guns (rubber bullets, let’s hope) to follow.

I have been glued to the live feed on http://hongwrong.com/occupy-central-live/ since getting home from work.  It is so surreal, to be sitting here in an ACTUAL CONFLICT ZONE, watching live footage of the unfolding chaos like I would watch in an action film.  The thing is…. it’s not a movie, it’s my home, and it’s happening live.  Scenes of the Admiralty MTR piled high with garbage cans, cordons, and barricades; footage of police in riot gear shooting pepper spray and tear gas into crowds of unarmed students with their hands in the air, reports of my friends getting hit with tear gas canisters; whatsapping with friends on the ground, listening to thousands of my HK compatriots singing “Do you hear the people sing” and “Beyond” through the Hong Wrong live feed……. I am overcome.  I am so frustrated to be in Kabul, and not in Hong Kong right now.  I feel helpless that I am not there with my friends fighting for our democracy, for our votes, for our rights, for our voices.

Something significant resonate strongly with me.  This protest started days ago, and yet, every piece of footage shows protestors with their hands raised and open, no rioting, no aggression, no looting, no violence whatsoever.  You will never find a more peaceful protest.  Hong Kongers just want freedom.  On the other, coming from the Kabul perspective, a city where I regularly see pickup trucks full of police carrying automatic weapons, where I have to avert my eyes at traffic checkpoints, where at any moment those who keep order here can become perpetrators, it should to be noted that the Hong Kong police are actually showing a great deal of restraint.  The whole situation could have escalated way further than it has, and although I am horrified to see my city imploding the way it is, I am grateful for the control thus far.  I just pray it doesn’t go any further…….

This movement in Hong Kong…… is not just important for Hong Kongers.  This is important for everyone who lives in the territory- local and expat alike.  This is important for Taiwan.  This is important for Macau.  This is important for DEMOCRACY IN GENERAL.  Can the world sit by and watch a peaceful and wildly successful, autonomous, first world territory have its rights taken away?

MEANWHILE, Afghanistan is poised just hours before the inauguration of our new president, in the first ever democratic handover of power in the country.  Ashraf Ghani won 55.27% of the vote, but sadly has to share the power with Gul Marjan Double Abdullah, in a deal that has been met by heavy sighs across the nation.  Afghanistan has been crippled for six months by these election processes and recounts and withdrawals from the audit process, so the unsurprising results were met not with the bang that some suspected, but by the whimper they deserved.  And just a few hours ago Mr. Gul Marjan ye na mani threatened to boycott tomorrow’s inauguration!!  Let’s see what, if anything, happens tomorrow in Kabul, my other home.

tear_gas_cops1am

Cops tear gassing HK crowds around 1am

photo credit NY Times

Tear Gassing

photo credit Mazen El-Mahmoud

Beyond the barricades….

photo credit Hong Kong Allies

Face off

Hong Wrong live feed:

Watch this South China Morning Post video on the clashes today:

http://static.movideo.com/flash/movideo_player.swf

photo credits: Joshua Wong, SCMP, Hong Kong Allies, Andrea Banang, Mazen El-Mahmoud